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LOGO ART
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Painting tips
FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
Tons of reproduction parts and cars

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FAQs
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Are reproduction parts and bodies made of the same plastic as original cars? Do I paint them the same?
No. Reproduction parts are made from a 2-part resin, similar in some ways to a 2-part epoxy glue you may have used in the past. The 2 chemicals A & B are mixed together and in a short time they harden and are removed from a rubber mold. Resins can be immersed for a short time and ARE NOT affected by harsh paint chemicals such as laquer thinner, carb cleaner, acetone and others, BUT!!!!!! original bodies from Aurora, Tyco and others WILL BE attacked !!IMMEDIATELY!!! if you attempt to use them on your cars. Painting original cars with laquer based paints can affect the outside appearance of your cars and will slightly distort the finish of the body if the paint must later be removed.
What should I use for masking?
If you use good 'ole masking tape, you're in trouble. I dont recommend it at all except for major outside masking. I like to use the clear "Scotch tapes" that are commonly found. You can see thru the tape for alignment and cutting as well as the clear tape's adhesive characteristics are very smooth and sure. You typically won't have the "wicking" problems associated with masking tape. If you do have a bit of wicking or overspray, try a small amount of lighter fluid on a cotton swab and clean up the edges while the paint is still "fresh". NOW, sometimes clear tape will become fragile and brittle when trying to remove the tape after painting, so to protect the tape from the paint, I then cover the clear tape with the good 'ole masking tape.  - NEW! PAINT MASK TEMPLATES!!!  These are great so check them out - CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS
What paint masking on repeat jobs?
For more repeat paint jobs, make a template. I make mine very easily by using 3M heavy duty packing tape. This has proved very durable and will last for years if you protect the template.
What can I use to remove old paint from my original cars?
Believe it or not, you can actually remove old paint that applied years ago and still leave the factory paint on the car. The can be done with simple household chemicals. Spic-N-Span is the key! Simply remove all the orignal chrome from the car, and soak the car in a bath of Spic-N-Span (SnS) for a few days. THIS WILL NOT HURT THE CAR IN ANY WAY! You will be able to leave the car in this bath for weeks and it won't affect the car. Simply check the car about every 12 hours, morning and evening work well, and remove the soft paint with a toothbrush.  You can start also to use a toothpick in the door lines and other small body lines to remove the paint. Repeat the soaking and cleaning steps and usually in about 2 days all or most all of the paint will be removed leaving the factory paint underneath.
What should I use and not use on my cars for cleaning?
The chemicals I like to have around are:
Spic-N-Span - this will remove old paint and leave the factory paint
Pine-Sol - This will remove ALL old paint.  Strips all paint.
Easy Off Oven cleaner - removes old "chrome" from bumpers and will remove paint too but you must not leave in the cleaner for too long as it will attack the plastics. I use it only for cleaning the chrome from bumpers.
Lighter fluid - This is the lighter fluid that your dad used in his lighters not the butane of today. This can still be easily found in stores today. I prefer Red Devil brand. This is a good all around cleaner of finger prints, some fresh paint, oils, and many other things, but it won't affect the plastic body or glass parts. Great for cleaning chassis parts.
TESTORS LAQUER BRUSH CLEANER - this is actually a "fast laquer thinner" and can attack body part's finish if used for too long. I use this to remove factory paint in selected areas. I apply it with a cotton swab on the paint I want removed and lightly scrub the paint with the thinner. This can only be done for about 15 seconds!! Any more than that you will risk affecting the finish of the car. If more time is needed to remove the paint, apply it in 15 second intervals letting the car sit for a couple of minutes before applying more thinner.
I DO NOT USE:
Brake fluid for stripping - it will attack clear parts and fog them.
Laquer thinner for stripping - it will quickly attack and dissolve your original plastic parts.
TESTORS Hobby Paints - there are just too many good paints out there to use.
EASY OFF oven cleaner - for stripping paint, it can attack the plastic if left too long.  However, it is good for stripping chome off of parts, but don't leave them in for more than a few hours.
Can I use the silver marking pens to paint with?
Yes. I recommend you go to your local ART shop, not hobby shop, as they will have far more of a selection. Ask them if you can test the silver paint pens, and apply each one in a line to some glass or other shiney item. Let them all dry and then rub your finger across the silver test lines. The one silver pen that doesn't smear is the one you buy. I have found a brand called Marvy-UCHIDA works pretty well.  See also below for "paints I use" for some silver detail tips.
What about decaling?
Before I decal any car, I clean the car very well, because afterwards I will be applying a clear coat to seal the decals, so CLEAN THE CAR! I prefer water-slide decals over peel-n-stick. After my decals have been applied, I like to use SOLVASET, a decal set made by the "train people" Walthers. This will make the decals appear very crinkled and rough at first, but as it drys the decal will conform to every nook and cranny on the body. This SOFTENS the decal and car will needed to avoid contact with the decal until it completely dries, usually in about 2 hours. After the car is completely dry, I apply a clear coat of KRYLON Chrystal CLEAR sealer over all the car. This protects the decals and gives the car a beautiful shine.
Phil, What paints do you use?
The only paints I use are: Dupli-color, Tamiya, and Krylon.  I like a brand of paints found at your local auto-parts store, called DUPLI-COLOR.  They make the little "rock-chip" paint bottles and also have small aerosol cans for spray touch up on your real 1:1 car.  Its a laquer type of paint and very thin and easy to use.  I simply carefully spray the paint right into my airbrush (I use Badger and Paashe-good ones not cheapies) and then spray right onto my slot car body.  Be careful, it can attack some plastics--not resin bodies.  The Dupli-color is great for painting resin bodies, but I also use the silver Dupli-color for "chrome" trim, etc.  For that I just spray the silver right into the silver paint cap and use it to dip my brush into.  If I have decals, I spray them with the Krylon Crystal Clear.  For small tail lights, drivers hair, and other small spots I also use Tamiya Acrylic paints found at the hobby shop..
I hope this helps with your Aurora PAINTING questions and if you need to find parts for restoring your cars, see Road Race Replicas for all your needs.
Do you have HO slotcars For Sale? Email me, I'm always looking!
Email me at:  rrr.nurora@gmail.com


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The above information is believed to be accurate, true and based on the opinions and experiences of Phil Pignon. It is for public viewing and not to be used in any publications, printed or otherwise without the written consent of Road Race Replicas
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